CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Hardwood
Preventive Floor Care
Place high-quality floor mats or area rugs with a soft felt backing near entrances and high-traffic areas to prevent loose dirt, debris, and other abrasive substances from being tracked directly onto the flooring surface. Do not use rubber-backed mats as these will damage the factory finish and void the manufacturer warranty.
Hardwood flooring installed in the kitchen should be protected in areas subject to cooking splatter, spills, and water splashes. High-quality throw rugs with a soft felt backing should be placed in front of the cooktop, oven, sink, and dishwasher to protect the flooring finish.
IMPORTANT! Water spills, splashes, hot oil, or food debris that lands on unprotected areas of the hardwood flooring must be cleaned up immediately! Damage to the factory finish from a failure to protect it from water spills, hot oil, and food debris is not covered by the manufacturer warranty!
Apply felt furniture pads to movable furniture, including but not limited to chairs, tables, sofas, and heavy furniture to protect the hardwood factory finish.
Rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the hardwood finish ages evenly. UV sunlight exposure may change the flooring color over time and is not considered a manufacturing defect.
Keep pet nails trimmed and filed to minimize scratches and indentations. All hardwood floors will indent with enough force or when exposed to sharp objects.
Maintain a consistent room temperature of 65°-85°F with relative humidity levels of 35-55%, for the life of the installed hardwood flooring.
Only use hardwood cleaning products specifically formulated for your flooring product finish. Improper use of cleaning products will damage the factory finish.
IMPORTANT! Required room temperature and humidity levels must be maintained at all times, even when the home or building is not occupied.
Regular Care
Dry dust mop or vacuum (raised beater or suction type) frequently to remove loose debris and dirt from the hardwood flooring surface.
Use only hardwood floor cleaning products designed for hardwood floors.
Do not use steam cleaners or power scrubbing machines on the hardwood flooring.
When the hardwood floor requires refinishing (acrylic or polyurethane) or re-oiling (for oil-finished floors), consult a NWFA Certified Professional. (nwfa.org)
FINISH-SPECIFIC GUIDELINES
UV Acrylic / Polyurethane Floor Care & Maintenance
UV Acrylic and Polyurethane floors require the same general preventive, regular care, and maintenance as other hardwood finishes.
Regular Care:
Daily cleaning to remove debris should be done with a soft broom, vacuum cleaner (raised beater or suction type), or a Microfiber Mop Set.
Use floor cleaning products specifically made for Acrylic or Polyurethane finished floors, such as Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner.
First, dry mop the floor to remove all dirt and debris, then follow the instructions on the cleaning product, ensuring that you do not oversaturate the floor.
Avoid using water and vinegar, soap-based cleaners, or wax on your hardwood floor as they can dull or leave a film on the finish over time.
Recoat/Refinish:
- When the hardwood floor requires recoating or refinishing, consult an NWFA Certified Professional.
Oil Finish Floor Care & Maintenance
- Oil-finished floors provide a more natural-looking matte finish that is durable and easy to maintain.
- Oil-finished hardwood floors require the same general preventive, regular care, and maintenance as other hardwood finishes.
- Oil-finished floors installed in high-traffic or commercial areas will require more frequent maintenance, including periodic deeper cleaning and rejuvenation.
Regular Care:
Daily cleaning should be done with a soft broom, vacuum cleaner (raised beater or suction type), or Microfiber Mop Set.
Use “Wash & Care Floor Cleaner” spray along with the Microfiber Mop Set to clean areas that have become soiled. Spray a small amount of cleaner on a soft dry cloth, then wipe to remove marks and dirt. This cleaner will not leave streaks or a film and can be used as often as desired.
IMPORTANT! Do not use products containing alcohol on oil-finished hardwood flooring. Most general cleaning products contain alcohol, which can damage the factory oil finish and void the manufacturer warranty.
Oil Finish Touch-up:
- Over time, the hardwood floor oil finish may need treatment with Touch-Up Oil. There is no set time for when to do this. Heavily trafficked areas may require touch-ups sooner.
Heavy Duty Cleaning and Rejuvenation:
Heavily soiled areas may require deeper cleaning and oil finish rejuvenation. Use “Spot Remover & Rejuvenating Oil” for this purpose.
Remove loose debris, clean with “Wash & Floor Cleaner” spray, and apply a small amount of “Spot Remover & Rejuvenating Oil” to a soft cloth. Gently rub to remove dirt. Wipe off excess oil with a moist (not wet) microfiber cloth or the sponge side of the scotch pad.
Do’s & Don’ts for Oil Finish Floors
Clean up spills, hot oil, cooking splatter, or other moisture immediately.
Maintain a consistent room temperature of 65°-85°F with relative humidity levels of 35-55%.
Do not use harsh cleaning products, such as ammonia, acetone, alcohol, paint thinner, bleach, abrasive cleaners, or furniture cleaners on oil-finished hardwood floors.
Do not use oil-based wax, oil soap, mineral oil, polish, or household cleaners on oil-finished hardwood floors.
Avoid cosmetic lotions or other oil-based products from coming into contact with the oil finish.
Do not wet mop oil finish hardwood floors, as excess moisture will damage the finish and void the manufacturer warranty.
Do not use Acrylic or Polyurethane wood cleaning products on oil-finished flooring, as they will damage the factory finish.
Only use hardwood floor cleaning products specifically formulated for oil finish hardwood flooring.
IMPORTANT! Adhesive glue or tape used or left on the surface of an oil-finished floor will damage the factory finish and void the manufacturer warranty. The use of adhesive removal products, including acetone and paint thinner, will damage the factory finish and void the manufacturer warranty.
Luxury Vinyl Tile
All our Luxury Vinyl floors are built to last. However, if you want to get the most out of your new floor and keep it spick and span for decades to come, you will need to give it some TLC. Here’s a quick list of Vinyl Dos and Don’ts followed by some useful tips we’ve gathered from decades of experience
More Tips and Information
Doormats are useful for picking up moisture as well as grit before it gets to the floor. A must-have for any home.
When vacuuming and sweeping, pay extra attention to beveled edges — these can pick up dust.
Soap-based products leave an unwanted film which can dull the surface of your floor over time. Instead, use warm water with proper floor cleaner.
Sweeping with the grain will leave less dirt on textured tiles.
Once the floor has been installed, vacuum or use a dust mop to clear the floor of any loose dirt or residual dust or debris. The floor can be wiped with neutral pH cleaners or water.
Furniture should have felt pads attached to the feet to avoid scratching the floor. Heavy appliances or furniture should sit on non-staining, large-surface flooring protectors.
When furniture has castors or wheels on the feet, they must be suitable for resilient floors, large surface, non-staining, and swivel easily. Avoid ball-type castors as they can damage the floor.
Office chairs with castor wheels should be equipped with wide, rubber castors and protective mats under the chairs.
Protective mats should be non-staining as rubber mats may discolor the floor. All furniture pieces should have floor protectors under them.
Walk-off mats should be used in entrances to help prevent dirt from being carried onto the floor.
The product should never be exposed to temperatures exceeding 140°F. Avoid exposure to long periods of direct sunlight. Blinds or drapes should be closed during peak daylight hours. Exposure to excessive heat and light can thermally degrade the floor.
Regularly sweep or vacuum the floor to remove dirt and dust. Do not use a vacuum with a beater bar as this can cause floor scratches.
Do not use hard-bottomed electric brooms without padding as they can scratch the floor. We do not recommend the use of any type of steam cleaner on our floors, as they generate too much moisture and heat.
If adhesive was used, the resulting moisture and heat can break down the adhesive. If no glue is used, both peaked and swelled edges can occur. Therefore, all complaints determined to be from using a steamer will be denied by Elite Flooring Solutions.
If pet urine contacts the floor, it should be cleaned promptly. If not, it may dull the finish.
Liquid spills and wet areas should also be cleaned in a timely manner. The floor can be damp-mopped with clean warm water and a dilute floor cleaner as needed. Avoid harsh cleaners, abrasive scrubbing pads, tools, or cleaners as they can scratch the floor. Do not use detergents or floor shining products like “mop and shine” on the floor.
Petroleum-based products can stain the surface of your vinyl floor. This includes materials like asphalt driveway sealer and engine motor oil, among others.
Carpet
MOHAWK (General & Vacuum)
Everyday Care
• Vacuum your carpet regularly to prevent soil from embedding itself in the pile.
• Depending on the type of carpet you have, you’ll want to use a vacuum with a rotating brush, a beater bar, or suction only.
• Keeping traffic and other use factors in mind, consider professional cleaning every 12 to 18 months.
Simple Repairs
• Use scissors to clip sprouts and snags. Don’t pull on them—you might damage the carpet.
• If your carpet is burned, simply remove the tops of the dark, burnt fibers with curved fingernail scissors. If the burn is extensive, you may need to patch or replace it.
• Remove heavy furniture dents by stroking the dented area with the edge of a coin. You can also use a hair dryer or a steam iron, but be very careful not to touch the carpet with the iron.
• For extensive water damage, consult professional cleaners to dry your carpet from the front and back
Stain Removal
• Always treat the affected area immediately. The longer the spill sits there, the harder it’ll be to remove the stain.
• For a food spill, gently remove as much solid material as you can with a spoon or a dull knife. Add water and blot, using detergent sparingly if needed. Then, using the highest suction function, vacuum back and forth, adding more water to the stain as you go until completely clean.
• If you need a spot removal solvent, use a product approved by The Carpet and Rug Institute of America. Apply several drops to a clean white cloth and blot the carpet in an inconspicuous area. If you notice a change in the carpet color, consult a professional carpet cleaner.
SELECTING THE RIGHT VACUUM
When selecting the right vacuum, adjustable height is the most important feature to consider. This enables the machine to be used on a wide variety of carpet constructions. If your vacuum is set too high above the carpet surface, the vacuum can’t attract the gritty soil below. If the setting is too low, the vacuum’s beater bar or brushes can “fuzz” the carpet’s surface, causing it to look worn or frayed.
CONSIDER YOUR SOFT CARPET TYPE HIGH PILE & PREMIUM SOFT CARPET
Use the highest adjustable height setting where appropriate. Avoid vacuums with very concentrated or sealed suction. Your vacuum should glide easily across the carpet, making large wheels the best choice.
THICK LOOP, CASUAL FRIEZE, OR LONG PILE CARPET
You may need to completely disengage the beater bar and vacuum with suction only.
ALL OTHER CARPET CONSTRUCTIONS
Use a vacuum with a rotating brush or beater bar. Change the bags often, and check the beater bars for burs and gouges to prevent damage to the surface of the carpet. If you are unsure about the proper height setting, use an inconspicuous place like a closet to test your vacuum. Its beater bar or brush should just lightly touch your carpet’s surface.
RECOMMENDED VACUUMS
The following vacuums have been recommended to help maintain and clean premium soft carpet.
They are available for purchase at Mohawk retail locations or by visiting shop.edmarvac.com
Soniclean SFC-7000 Soft Carpet Upright Vacuum is designed to make vacuuming easy, while protecting the plush fibers of your soft carpet. It features a patented sonic bar that produces 200 sonic vibrations per second and a jam protection system to prevent any brush roll problems.
Bissell Big Green Commercial BGU6000 Ultra Soft Carpet Vacuum is engineered for soft carpet vacuuming and ease of maintenance. This vacuum utilizes a unique venting system and brush roll to provide superior cleanability with ease of use.
*The CRI Seal of Approval certifies superior carpet cleaning products and equipment.
GODFREY HIRST (General)
With easy regular care you can protect your investment and keep your carpet looking great for as long as possible.
Regular Vacuuming
• It is important to vacuum your carpet thoroughly and frequently, particularly in high traffic areas to prolong the life of and enhance the appearance of your carpet.
• After your carpet is laid, vacuum lightly and frequently in the first week and then at least weekly and more frequently in high traffic areas after that.
• Give three vacuum passes for light soiled areas and five to seven passes for heavily soiled areas.
• Vacuum first against the pile direction to help unsettle and remove dirt and grit to reduce matting.
• When finishing, vacuum in the direction of the pile to achieve a uniform finish.
Vacuum Type
• Use only a quality vacuum.
• Vacuums fitted with micro filter systems ensure fine particles (such as dustmite allergens ) are removed and stay in the collection bag (particularly if you are dust sensitive).
• To prevent excess fuzzing turn the brush off, or change the head when vacuuming loop pile, cut pile or berber carpet.
• Check and adjust the height of beaters if fitted regularly to ensure the carpet is not damaged by excessive beating.
• For thicker carpets with a higher pile, the height of beaters may be raised and/or suction level reduced to make vacuuming easier.
• Suction efficiency is reduced considerably when bags are half full.
• Change or empty dust collection bags frequently and replace filters as recommended by the manufacturer.
Steam Cleaning
• Depending on usage carpet should be professionally steam cleaned every 12-18 months.
• Steam Cleaning should only be undertaken by a professional carpet cleaner who is a member of a professional association.
• Shampooing, do it yourself steam cleaning or dry cleaning are not recommended.
Spot Cleaning
• Prompt attention to spillages or stains is paramount to avoid the penetration of a stain into the carpet fiber.
• Liquids (particularly hot liquids) must be attended to immediately. If allowed to cool or dry, the stain will be more difficult to remove.
• Care must be taken as haphazard attempts at spot removal can cause permanent stain setting, pile distortion and loss of color.
• Follow the stain removal steps as recommended.
• Exercise extreme care with all bleaches and chemical products as the can permanently discolor or dissolve carpets.
Ways to Protect Your Carpet
• Place door mats at exterior doorways.
• Use furniture coasters and chair pads under chairs with castors and occasionally rearrange furniture to alleviate pressure marks.
• Use rugs to protect carpet in high traffic areas.
• Protect carpet from prolonged periods of direct sunlight with curtains or blinds.
SMARTSTRAND TRIEXTA NANOLOC
DREAMWEAVER
I have a stain on my carpet that I can’t remove with your recommended methods. Now what?
Depending on your style purchased, there may be additional steps we can utilize to clean your stain. Email us at [email protected] and/or [email protected]. We will need to know the style name or number of the carpet you purchased and the nature of the stain you have encountered. Based on that information, we can recommend a course of action to improve your stain.
Carpet Care Checklist
- Only install your carpet in appropriate areas of your home.
- Use a professional carpet installer for best results.
- Use a quality carpet pad of the correct thickness and weight.
- Always have clean walk-off mats at all entrances to capture outside soil before it’s tracked inside.
- Vacuum regularly with a Carpet and Rug Institute Seal of Approval vacuum cleaner.
- Have your carpet professionally cleaned using hot water extraction every 12-18 months to remove soil and residues and prolong the life of your carpet.
- Always attend to accidents and spills immediately by blotting the spill with a damp, white absorbent towel.
- Do not apply heat or hot water to a urine stain.
- Have professionals remove stains caused by markers.
- Only use Carpet and Rug Institute Seal of Approval spot cleaners.
Dealing with Carpet Spills and Stains: A Step-by-Step Guide
The Golden Rule: Act Quickly!
- Address spills and stains immediately. The longer a substance stays on the carpet, the harder it is to remove.
Initial Cleanup:
- Remove Solids:
- Carefully scrape off any solid material with a dull knife or similar tool.
- Blot Liquids:
- Use a clean, white absorbent cloth to blot up as much liquid as possible.
- Work from the outside of the stain inwards to prevent it from spreading.
General Stain Removal:
- Avoid Heat:
- Never use heat or hot water on urine stains, as this can make them permanent.
- Cold Water Treatment:
- Apply a small amount of cold water to the stain using a clean cloth or spray bottle.
- Continue to blot the area.
- Detergent Solution (for general stains):
- Mix a solution of 1/4 teaspoon clear liquid dish detergent (no additives like lanolin or lotion) with 1 cup of cold water.
- Apply the solution using a spray bottle or clean cloth.
- Application Technique:
- Apply cleaning solutions gently. Do not saturate the carpet.
- Rub lightly in one direction, following the carpet fibers, rather than rubbing back and forth.
- Do not rub with excessive pressure.
- Absorption:
- Use a clean, white absorbent cloth to soak up as much of the stain, cleaning solution, and water as possible.
- Apply direct pressure, or use a wet vac for suction.
- Drying:
- Allow the carpet to dry completely before walking on it.
Dealing with Set-In Pet Urine Stains:
- Vinegar Solution:
- For stains that have been left for a long time, use a 50/50 mixture of clear vinegar and water.
- Bleach Solution (Use with Caution):
- A 50/50 bleach and water solution can be used instead of, or in addition to, the above methods. Test in a hidden area first to check for discoloration.
- Enzyme Cleaner:
- An enzyme cleaner can be effective for organic stains like pet urine.
Final Steps:
- Repeat as Needed:
- Repeat any of the above steps as necessary.
- Rinse Thoroughly:
- Completely remove all cleaning product residue with cold water and blotting or suction.
- Residue will attract dirt.
- Professional Help:
- For stubborn stains, professional carpet cleaning may be required.
Carpet and Rug Institute approved vacuum cleaners
SOA Vacuums Archive
– The Carpet and Rug Institute
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PRESTIGE
General Cleaning Guide
With proper care, a handmade carpet or rug will last for generations. First and foremost, you should always use anti-slip padding. It will protect the floor, minimize wear of the rug, make it softer to walk on, and keep the rug from slipping. In addition, you should use protectors on the feet of any tables or chairs that will be resting on top of the rug. This will prevent indentations and wear.
HANDMADE CARPET & RUG CARE
VACUUMING
Vacuuming will go a long way towards prolonging the appearance and life of your rug or carpet and is the best way to remove everyday dirt and dust. We recommend vacuuming once a week, or twice a week if the carpet is in a high-traffic area. Use only a suction vacuum on your rug, and not a vacuum with a beater bar brush. Vacuum across in both directions of the traffic pattern to prevent matting. Be sure to check and empty your vacuum bag regularly, as vacuums become less efficient as the debris bag becomes full. When your rug or carpet is first installed, you may notice an accumulation of fuzziness on the surface from vacuuming. This is perfectly normal and will not shorten the life of your rug. It is merely the result of loose fibers created during the weaving process.
STAIN REMOVAL
If an area rug becomes spotted or stained, work quickly. When possible, scoop up solids and blot liquids immediately after a spill occurs. Absorb as much liquid as possible with a clean white cloth or paper towel without scrubbing the area to prevent matting or fuzzing. Contact a handmade rug cleaning professional immediately
SPOT CLEANING
Spot clean by hand with a clean cloth towel and mild wool-only detergent (pH range of 5-9), which won’t leave a residue. Add only minimal moisture to the area. Pouring large amounts of water can spread the stain and cause a larger halo effect. Also, do not pour wine or salt water onto the stain. Salt can cause the leaching of color from a rug. When performing spot cleaning, blot the affected areas. Rubbing can cause fiber damage. Immediate attention to spills and spots will give the best results.
PROFESSIONAL CLEANING
If you have any major spills or stains, seek professional cleaners immediately. For regular maintenance, it is recommended to clean your rug every 2–5 years, depending on use. Do not steam clean. A reputable cleaner will hand-wash your rug using a pH-neutral detergent.
MOLD AND MILDEW PREVENTION
Moisture causes potential mold and mildew issues with rugs. If spills occur, make sure that the rug dries completely. If possible, lift the affected area off the pad to allow air to circulate. This will allow the moisture to dissipate. Plants are a major cause of this issue as well. Do not place a potted plant on the rug or carpet directly, even if there is a saucer. The continuous moisture can cause rot to occur.
WOOL CARPET CARE
VACUUMING
Weekly vacuuming of the carpet removes loose dirt, dust, and debris. Use a vacuum cleaner with suction only—no beater bar—to prevent wear and tear on the carpet. If your vacuum has a beater bar, raise it to the highest level to cause the least wear.
SPOT CLEANING
For small spills and stains, act quickly. Blot the spill gently with a clean, dry cloth or paper towel to absorb as much liquid as possible. Avoid rubbing the stain, as this can push it deeper into the fibers. Mix a mild carpet cleaner or a mixture of water and a small amount of dish soap. Test the cleaner in an inconspicuous area to ensure it doesn’t cause any color or texture damage. Dampen a clean cloth with the cleaning solution and gently blot the stained area from the outside in. Don’t oversaturate the carpet. Blot the area with a clean, damp cloth to remove any cleaning residue, and then blot again with a dry cloth to absorb excess moisture. Extract as much moisture as possible during the cleaning process. Do not ever add large amounts of liquid to the spill. It can cause the stain to halo and become much larger. A dry-cleaning powder can be used. Brush the powder into the stain and let it sit for the recommended amount of time. If necessary, call a professional cleaner.
PROFESSIONAL CLEANING
Depending on the level of dirt and stains, you might need to deep clean the carpet periodically. Hiring a professional cleaning service is recommended. Do not steam clean or excessively wet the carpet, as many carpets are made with a jute backing that can be sensitive to moisture. After deep cleaning, allow the carpet to dry thoroughly before replacing furniture.
SHEDDING & SHADING
LONG TUFTS: If you find a stray tuft protruding from the surface of your carpet, do not pull it out. Instead, cut it with scissors to the level of the surrounding pile.
SHEDDING: With a new carpet, short pieces of fiber will work loose from the pile during the first few months. This is to be expected and does not mean that there is a defect. The amount of fiber lost represents a very small fraction of the whole carpet.
SHADING: Light and dark patches often appear on a cut-pile carpet shortly after it has been laid. This shading is usually most noticeable on plain velvet carpet. It is not a sign of wear, but simply the result of the new tufts being trodden down in varying directions.
HAND-TUFTED CARPET CARE
VACUUMING
Regular vacuuming is a primary consideration in carpet care. Use a vacuum cleaner with suction only—no beater bar—to prevent wear on the carpet. If your vacuum has a beater bar, raise it to the highest level to cause the least wear.
SPOT CLEANING
While there is no guarantee of a stain’s removal, the sooner you tend to a spill or spot, the better. The longer the spill remains on the carpet the harder it will be to remove. A general caution in the treatment of any spill is “blot, do not rub.” Take a clean white paper towel or napkin and cover the spot. Blot the towel over the spill. Continue this process until all excess moisture from the spill is absorbed into the paper towel. Keep using fresh, dry paper towels. Make sure when you blot the paper towel over the spill that you barely pick up additional moisture. Next take a slightly damp paper towel and repeat the above process to dilute any residual moisture from the spill. Then take a dry paper towel and repeat the process to remove all excess moisture. If the stain is still visible, a dry-cleaning powder can be used. Brush the powder into the stain and let it sit for the recommended amount of time. If necessary, call a professional cleaner.
PROFESSIONAL CLEANING
Depending on the level of dirt and stains, you might need to deep clean the carpet periodically. Hiring a professional cleaning service is recommended.
SHADING, SPROUTING & SHEDDING
SHADING: Almost all cut-pile carpets shade. This effect, called watermarking, is caused by a slight directional change in the pile forcing light to reflect differently on the surface. It is similar to shading in beautiful velvet fabrics and may be mild to extreme. This is not a manufacturing defect. Although shading cannot be eliminated, regular vacuuming can help.
SPROUTING: After some use, you may experience various sprouting of small tufts of yarn. This may occur for several months on a new carpet. This is a normal occurrence and is not a manufacturing defect. These individual threads can be cut even with the pile surface. In addition, it is possible to experience the unraveling of some yarn in loop-pile carpets. If it is only one tuft, it is okay to cut this. If a piece of yarn unraveled, it may require reweaving. This is a simple process and is not considered a manufacturing defect. Please contact your showroom if this occurs.
SHEDDING: In the first several months a new wool carpet may experience some shedding of fiber. When vacuuming the carpet, you may notice the entire bag filled with this fiber. This should cause no concern as it is normal and expected. Loose fibers, which are not held tightly by the yarn, are removed by vacuuming. The amount of fiber removed will decrease with each vacuuming and finally be very minimal.
CLEANING CARPETS AND RUGS MADE FROM OTHER FIBERS
VISCOSE / BANANA SILK / BAMBOO SILK / RAYON
These are cellulose fibers and may be cleaned using a very gentle soap. Blot with a fine cloth in the direction of the pile. To avoid shrinking and possible browning, avoid excessive drying and agitation. As with wool, use cleaning products with a pH of 5 or less.
NYLON
Blot the area with a white cloth dipped in warm water to help loosen the stain. Treat the stain using a mixture of 1 cup distilled white vinegar, 1 cup water and 1 tablespoon dish soap. Blot and repeat with the cleaner until the stain lifts. Sprinkle baking soda over the area as the carpet air-dries. Once the carpet is dry, vacuum up the baking soda.
COTTON
Do not use harsh chemicals on cotton. When the stain initially occurs, blot it and do not apply water or any other cleaning solvents, which would allow the stain to spread. Professional cleaning is recommended, where they will use soft soap on both sides. The carpet or rug will be rinsed, and then put in the temperature room for drying.
SILK
Clean silk using a dry-cleaning process. These fibers may be damaged by natural and synthetic acids and sunlight. Consult a rug cleaning specialist for additional information about cleaning silk.
SISAL / JUTE / ABACA
Never saturate your carpet with water or cleaner as this will stain the natural fibers. Whenever possible, clean up a spill immediately after it occurs. A liquid spill left untreated will act as a magnet to any dirt particles that are in the rug, causing the dirt to rise to the surface. This dirt may cause a dark stain. If liquid, blot up as much as you can with a clean, undyed cloth, pressing firmly all around the spill to absorb as much of the liquid as possible. If the material is solid, scrape up what you can with a spoon or the dull edge of a knife or spatula. Depending on the level of dirt and stains, you might need to deep clean the carpet periodically. Hiring a professional cleaning service is recommended.
STARK Performance Acrylic Cleaning Guide
STARK Performance Acrylic is made with 100% solution-dyed acrylic to provide long-lasting luxury with little maintenance required. For proper care, please observe the following guidelines:
General Care
1. We recommend using a rug pad to preserve the life of the rug.
2. One of the best, easiest ways to maintain your rugs is to regularly vacuum any loose dirt that may accumulate before it becomes embedded in the fibers.
3. Use a vacuum or carpet sweeper on a regular basis. If your vacuum has a beater bar, it should be turned off or set to the highest setting to avoid agitating rug fibers.
4. Tend to spills immediately. The quicker you clean spills and stains, the easier they are to remove.
5. For excessive dirt removal from foot traffic, rugs can be power-washed.
SPILLS
1. When first tending to a spill, apply a light mist of mild soap (pH of 5 or lower) and water using a spray bottle. Work the solution into the stain by lightly agitating the surface with a clean, soft towel or sponge. Avoid scrubbing, and do not use a hard-bristled brush or anything else that could damage the rug.
2. Rinse the entire fabric thoroughly to remove all soap residue. Repeat rinsing and blotting until all soap residue is removed.
3. Blot excess moisture with a clean, soft towel or sponge.
4. Air dry.
TOUGH STAINS
Professional cleaning is always our first recommendation for tough stains. Advise cleaners to use a low-heat steam setting to avoid damaging the fibers. For do-it-yourself tough stain removal, the following steps are recommended:
1. Prepare a solution with one ounce of household bleach and 1/4 ounce of mild soap (pH of 5 or lower) per 16 ounces of water.
2. Spray on the entire area and allow it to soak into the rug for 15 minutes.
3. Blot the entire surface area with a sponge or clean towel.
4. Rinse thoroughly with water only to remove all soap residue.
5. Air dry.
PET STAINS
1. Combine 1/4 cup of dishwashing liquid and 1⁄2 cup of white vinegar per gallon of water or use commercial cleaner options such as 303R Multi-Purpose Cleaner or Resolve.
2. Spray on the entire area and allow it to soak into the rug for 15 minutes.
3. Rinse thoroughly with water only to remove all soap residue.
4. Blot the entire surface area with a sponge or clean towel.
5. Air dry.
STANTON
INDOOR/OUTDOOR (General Care)
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
• Vacuum or sweep regularly and/or shake to remove dust
• Simply hose off outdoor rug to clean
• Blot spills immediately with a clean dry cloth
• Rotate your rug twice a year to avoid traffic wear spots on your rug
• Keep away from prolonged moisture
• Use rug pads when used indoors
BENEFITS OF POLYPROPYLENE CONSTRUCTION
• All-weather rug construction is pet-friendly and mold- and mildew-resistant
• Yarn-dyed fiber has incredibly rich color that holds its vibrancy over time
• Made of polypropylene, a stain-resistant, water-repellent synthetic material
• Resistant to high heat temperatures so yarns will not wilt in hot climates
• All-weather rugs are resistant to chemicals, including bleach, so they easily repel stains and are equally easy to clean
• Flexible yarns maintain their original firmness, so you get a long-wearing rug that’s incredibly supple
• Lightweight for easy cleaining and relocating
• Woven to be incredibly tough and durable; Polypropylene rugs resist cracking in extreme temperatures
• Quick-drying, thanks to low water absorption quality and moisture barrier aspect of the yarns
• Stain resistant, so you can use these rugs in your outdoor decor without worry
• Outstanding resistance keeps your area rugs in high-quality condition for years
• Adds warmth underfoot in cooler temperatures and relief from hot surfaces in hot climates
Polypropylenes, Nylons, Polyesters
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Maintaining your quality purchase will repay you by keeping its beauty for many years.
• Vacuum regularly. Frequent vacuuming is a carpet’s best friend. In most cases, a suction only canister vacuum is best to prevent excess pilling and fuzzing. However, if this type is not available, set vacuum so that the brush is furthest away from the surface of the carpet.
• Remove spills immediately.
• Professionally clean annually. Do not apply stain repellent treatments that contain silicone because they tend to accelerate carpet soiling.
• Keep doormats clean. Exercise preventative maintenance by placing absorbent mats at the most frequently used entrances to your home. Change or launder when these mats become soiled.
• The vacuum cleaner dust bag should be changed when half full.
• Filters in your heating and air conditioning systems should be changed regularly.
STEPS FOR SPOT REMOVAL
One of the most crucial areas of carpet maintenance is removal of spots and spills. Acting quickly when anything is spilled or dropped, and always having the necessary cleaning materials at hand are of the utmost importance.
• Immediately blot (do not rub) spills with white paper towels or with a clean absorbent cloth. Scoop up solids.
• All cleaning agents and solvents should be Ph neutral; pre-test should be done in an inconspicuous area.
• Apply the cleaning agent listed on the spot removal chart (below) to an absorbent towel and begin to blot up the spill with a blotting motion. Flip cloth to prevent reapplying soil.
• Do not over saturate with water.
• Work inwards from the edge of the spot to prevent excess spreading.
• Wait a few minutes for the cleaning agent to work on the spot. Follow recommended directions.
• Once the cleaning agent has removed the spot, blot excessive moisture by applying pressure with paper towels or a dry absorbent cloth.
• Rinse with clear water on a clean cloth.
• Remove excess moisture by applying pressure with paper towels
RECOMMENDED PROFESSIONAL CLEANING
• Dry cleaning systems such as Capture®; Host®; Dri-Mate®; Wool Clean by Wools of New Zealand and Chem-Dry
• Truck-Mounted steam extraction is acceptable for tackless wall to wall installations. We do not recommend steam cleaning for loose lay rugs
• We do not recommend any portable units; nor any Bonnet systems or Rug Doctor systems
Tencel + Tencel Blends
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Maintaining your quality purchase will repay you by keeping its beauty for many years.
• Natural fibers are inherently absorbent and should not be placed in areas that are damp or where spills are likely to occur (kitchens, bathrooms, basements, and porches).
• Vacuum regularly. Frequent vacuuming is a carpet’s best friend. This will remove the fine dirt particles that can lodge between the fibers and cause additional wear. For best results, use a suction only vacuum: no beater bar, no rotary power head.
• Remove spills immediately with a clean dry cloth.
• Professionally clean as needed. Never steam clean or wet-shampoo a natural fiber floor covering.
• Keep doormats clean. Exercise preventative maintenance by placing absorbent mats at the most frequently used entrances to your home. Change or launder when these mats become soiled.
• The vacuum cleaner dust bag should be changed when half full. Filters in your heating and air conditioning systems should be changed regularly.
STEPS FOR SPOT REMOVAL
One of the most crucial areas of carpet maintenance is removal of spots and spills. Acting quickly when anything is spilled or dropped and always having the necessary cleaning materials at hand are of the utmost importance.
Pretest spot-removal in an inconspicuous area.
Remove spills immediately.
• Liquid spills act as a magnet to any dirt particles that are in the carpet, causing the dirt to rise to the surface. This dirt may cause a dark stain. Immediately blot – do not rub – the spot with a clean, absorbent white cloth or paper towel. Rubbing can work the liquid deeper into the fibers, making the spill more likely to stain the carpet.
• To remove spots caused by solid substances, first remove any remaining material. Scrape it up with a spoon, always working from the outside of the spot toward the center.
• Stanton recommends spot cleaning with dry cleaning products only, Capture, Host, Wool Dri.
WALL TO WALL CLEANING
Professionally clean as needed. Never steam clean or wet-shampoo a natural fiber floor covering which can cause shrinkage, discoloration, and/or staining. Please be aware that proper maintenance on natural products calls for Dry Clean Only.
Shag Carpet & Rugs
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Maintaining your quality purchase will repay you by keeping its beauty for many years.
• Vacuum regularly. Frequent vacuuming is a carpet’s best friend. A suction only canister vacuum is best to prevent excess pilling, fuzzing and pulls. However, if this type is not available, set vacuum so that the brush is furthest away from the surface of the carpet.
• Remove spills immediately.
• Professionally clean as needed. Do not apply stain repellent treatments that contain silicone because they tend to accelerate carpet soiling.
• Keep doormats clean. Exercise preventative maintenance by placing absorbent mats at the most frequently used entrances to your home. Change or launder when these mats become soiled.
• The vacuum cleaner dust bag should be changed when half full.
• Filters in your heating and air conditioning systems should be changed regularly.
STEPS FOR SPOT REMOVAL
One of the most crucial areas of carpet maintenance is removal of spots and spills. Acting quickly when anything is spilled or dropped, and always having the necessary cleaning materials at hand are of the utmost importance.
• Immediately blot (do not rub) spills with white paper towels or with a clean absorbent cloth. Scoop up solids.
• All cleaning agents and solvents should be Ph neutral; pre-test should be done in an inconspicuous area.
• Apply the cleaning agent listed on the spot removal chart (below) to an absorbent towel and begin to blot up the spill with a blotting motion. Flip cloth to prevent reapplying soil.
• Do not over saturate with water.
• Work inwards from the edge of the spot to prevent excess spreading.
• Wait a few minutes for the cleaning agent to work on the spot. Follow recommended directions.
• Once the cleaning agent has removed the spot, blot excessive moisture by applying pressure with paper towels or a dry absorbent cloth.
• Rinse with clear water on a clean cloth.
• Remove excess moisture by applying pressure with paper towels
WALL TO WALL CLEANING
• Dry cleaning systems such as Capture®; Host®; Dri-Mate®; Wool Clean by Wools of New Zealand and Chem-Dry
• Truck-Mounted steam extraction is acceptable for tackless wall to wall installations. We do not recommend steam cleaning for loose lay rugs
• We do not recommend any portable units; nor any Bonnet systems or Rug Doctor systems
Scotchguard™ Nylons
A Whole New Level of Protection…
Look for the Scotchgard™ Brand label to make sure your carpet is protected with Scotchgard™ protection. This label lets you know that you will be receiving all the benefits that Scotchgard™ Protector’s have to offer.
- Stains will clean up easier – less hassle for you
- Dirt will vacuum up easier
- Your carpet will look good longer because it is protected against tough stains
- Personalized stain-removal assistance from the experts at the Scotchgard™ Service Center
KEEP YOUR CARPET LOOKING BEAUTIFUL
- Use entrance mats
- Place mats inside and outside entrances to trap oil before it can be tracked into your home. Soil is the greatest threat to your carpet’s appearance
- Vacuum regularly
- The most important thing you can do for your carpet is to vacuum regularly. Removing dirt particles will reduce abrasion that can dull carpet fibers. Use a vacuum with a beater-bar, which will raise the pile when it removes soil
- Blot up spills immediately
- Immediate attention to spills and spots will make removal easier. Always blot the area being cleaned. Never rub, scrub or use a brush
- Clean periodically
- Clean your carpet using hot water extraction before it shows traffic patterns. Professional hot water extraction is the preferred method
EASY 1-2-3 SPOT CLEANING METHOD
Most household spills can be removed using the Easy 1-2-3 Spot Cleaning Method. To start, locate your stain on the chart below and follow the cleaning steps until the stain is removed.
WATER BASED STAINS
For these stains, start with step 1. If the stain remains, proceed with steps 2 and 3.
SPECIAL WATER-BASED STAINS
For these stains, start with step 1. If the stain remains, proceed with step 3. Omit step 2.
GREASY, OIL-BASED STAINS
For these stains, use Goo Gone. Follow directions on package, and then proceed with steps 1, 2 and 3.
* Freeze and remove solid materials before using dry cleaning fluid.
STEPS FOR 1-2-3 SPOT CLEANING METHOD
STEP 1
- Use a spoon or dull knife to remove solid materials.
For large stains, work from the outside of stain to the center to prevent spreading. - Blot up liquid spills with a towel or white paper towel.
Mix a solution of ¼ teaspoon of clear hand dishwashing detergent with 1 cup of water. Stir Gently. - Apply detergent solution directly to a white cloth. Dampen the carpet fibers in the stained area with a cloth. Avoid saturating the carpet.
- Wipe gently. Turn cloth frequently. Never rub, scrub or use a brush because it may damage carpet fibers.
If necessary, use your fingertips to work the solution to the base of the stain. - Wet the stained carpet fibers with clear, lukewarm water to rinse.
- Cover the spot with an absorbent towel or white paper towel and apply pressure to blot.
- Repeat the rinsing and blotting procedures until you are sure all traces of the detergent have been removed.
- If the stain is gone, place an absorbent towel or white paper towel over the area cleaned, and weigh towels down with a heavy, color-fast object, such as a weighted plastic wastebasket.
- Change towels or paper towels until carpet dries.
- If stain remains, proceed to step 2 (for coffee, tea or urine, skip step 2 and proceed to step 3)
STEP 2
- Do not use on coffee, tea or urine stains.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of non-bleaching, non-sudsing household ammonia with 1 cup of lukewarm water.
- Apply ammonia solution, rinse and blot as outlined in Step 1.
- Do not dry with paper towels. Proceed to step 3 to neutralize the ammonia solution.
STEP 3
- Mix 1 cup of white vinegar with 2 cups of water.
- Apply vinegar solution, rinse and blot as outline in step 1.
- If this process does not remove the stain, contact the Scotchgard Service Center at 1.800.433.3296 for further assistance.
REAPPEARING STAINS
If is not unusual for stains to sometimes reappear after spot-cleaning. Wicking occurs when a liquid has been spilled on the carpet (usually a large quantity) and cleaning attempts remove only the stain and liquid from the carpet fibers. Liquid still remains in the carpet backing or padding. Through capillary action, the stain can “wick” back up into the carpet fibers. Residual re-soiling occurs if staining substances or cleaning products are left in the carpet and attract soil. These stains are not permanent and typically can be removed by simply repeating the appropriate step-by-step directions listed in steps1-3.
OTHER HELPFUL HINTS:
Avoid overwetting the carpet backing during spot cleaning and rinsing. Blotting to remove excess moisture reduces the occurrence of wicking stains.
Use a “wet-vac” to extract liquid from the area if possible. Paper toweling placed over the cleaned area and weighted with a color-fast object will help absorb resurfacing stains. Use of fans to decrease the drying time will also help.
Natural Stone Surfaces
What products to avoid in natural surfaces
Never use acidic and abrasive cleaners or those that are not pH neutral, which can scratch the surface or lead to discoloration or corrosion. These include:
- Vinegar
- Ammonia
- Abrasive cleaning materials and solutions
- Citrus-based cleaners
- Antibacterial liquid soap
How to clean marble
What products to use
When it comes to cleaning marble, a gentle approach is best. Try this simple yet effective method to remove dirt and lift stains.
• Warm, distilled water
• Mild washing-up liquid or detergent
Distilled water is advised because it contains almost no impurities or mineral content, meaning the chance of staining or discoloring your marble is reduced. Alternatively, specialist marble cleaning products can be used if they are:
• Streak-free
• Grease and water-spot resistant
• Rinse-free (this will save you a lot of time and effort!)
How to clean marble surfaces
Marble is soft and porous so should always be cleaned with extra care and attention to detail. The key to keeping a marble floor or surface clean, without having to spend an inordinate amount of time scrubbing away, is not allowing dirt to build up over time. This method is quick and easy, and ideal if you do not have any specialist marble cleaning product to hand.
1. Use hot distilled water
Hot water is great for cutting through grime and may be a quick and easy solution to reduce the need for tougher cleaning products which could potentially damage the marble. Distilled water has minerals and impurities removed, making it an even better option for cleaning.
2. Use a mild detergent
Mild detergents – such as washing-up liquid and pH-neutral soaps – diluted with warm water are ideal, as they are less likely to cause any damage. Try to avoid harsh chemical solutions and acidic cleaners like vinegar and citrus-based cleaners.
3. Use equipment suited to marble
Instead of using scouring brushes or hard brushes, which could damage the marble, use soft cloths or a soft-bristled brush.
4. Rinse with cool, clean water
Use a soft, clean cloth or towel to wipe down the surfaces and remove traces of dirt.
5. Dry immediately
Soak up any liquid from the solution and/or water you have used to clean the marble as soon as possible using a soft, dry towel or microfiber cloth. Always change to a clean, dry towel or cloth when needed. Leaving marble surfaces to dry by themselves will cause water spots.
How to clean marble floors
1. Follow steps 1 and 2 above.
2. Use a soft mop and make sure it’s clean before using with your hot water and mild detergents.
3. Avoid using vacuums as the metal head could easily scratch and damage the marble.
4. Rinse with cool, clean water This will help you to clean up any remaining suds, dirt or debris on the floor. Do not forget to regularly change the bucket of water to prevent mopping the floor with dirty water and causing scratches from any debris.
5. Dry the floor, buffing it using a clean, dry towel
Caring for marble
Sealing marble with a professional sealant every three to five years is the best way to maintain its appearance and protect it from stains and other damage.
Although new surfaces will usually come ready-sealed, old surfaces may need a touch up; check the manufacturer’s instructions for guidance and be sure to test the product on a small, inconspicuous area first.
For day-to-day marble maintenance, you should:
• Clean stains quickly – as soon as you have spilt a liquid or substance wipe it up to avoid the marble staining.
• Use a damp felt pad or cloth for scuff marks and stains. Be careful to rub the marble gently in the direction of the grain, not in a circular motion.
• Use very fine sandpaper or wire wool to remove any light scratches, marks, or water spots.
• Dry off the marble with a clean, soft cloth or felt pad.
How do you remove stains from marble?
Baking soda
Is there no end to the talents of this powerful natural cleaner? It is cheap, easy to use and has moisture-sapping talents perfect for marble. What is not to love?
But before you get stuck in, a word of caution: this is a mild abrasive and should be used as directed and not worked into the marble with any force. It is also advised you don’t use this method regularly, as overuse can ruin the sheen of your marble. If in doubt, seek professional advice first.
1. Mix some baking powder and water into a thick paste.
2. Spread the mixture over the stained area with a cloth.
3. Leave the paste on the marble surface for a few hours.
4. Remove the mixture with a clean, wet cloth.
5. If the stain persists, apply more paste, and cover the area with cling film, leaving it for 24 hours. Wipe away the mixture with a warm, damp cloth – the stain should have disappeared.
Washing-up liquid
A mild washing-up liquid and water solution applied direct to the marble can work wonders on shifting stains. Make sure you do not use anti-bacterial washing-up liquid, as this can be abrasive to marble.
1. Dilute a teaspoon of mild washing-up liquid in a small bowl of warm water.
2. Dab a soft cloth into the solution and gently wipe over the stained area of marble.
3. Wipe down with a clean, dry cloth.
Hydrogen peroxide
If you are wondering how to clean white marble surfaces that have been stained, hydrogen peroxide is a good cleaning choice. Many marble experts recommend you use a 12 per cent solution of this bleaching agent, but a note of caution: do not use this product on darker colored marble as it can cause discoloration and always test on a small area first.
1. Apply a small amount of hydrogen peroxide solution mixed with a couple of drops of ammonia directly on the stained area.
2. Cover the product and stain with cling film, leaving it to work for at least 24 hours.
3. Remove the cling film and, using a clean damp cloth, carefully wipe away all traces of hydrogen peroxide.
4. Rinse the marble with distilled water and dry using a soft towel or cloth.
Corn flour
This ultra-absorbent cooking ingredient is great at soaking up any grease stains on your marble. For best results, try to treat the grease stains as soon as they happen.
1. Sprinkle some corn flour over the grease stain and leave for about half an hour to absorb the grease.
2. Use a clean, damp cloth to wipe away the corn flour.
3. For older grease stains, spray the stain with distilled water and apply a thick layer of corn flour, leaving for at least 24 hours before wiping away the powder with a clean, damp cloth.
How do you remove scratches and nicks in marble?
Use wire wool or sandpaper
Sandpaper or (very fine) wire wool can remove any light scratches or marks. Don’t apply too much pressure though, as this could cause more damage; just buff the area lightly with your chosen material. Rinse away any debris with warm water and buff dry using marble polish to help restore the shine.
Use warm water and mild washing-up liquid
Mix a small amount of mild washing up liquid with some warm water and apply the liquid directly to the scratched area with a damp cloth. Rub the area then rinse with a cloth dipped only in warm water. Finish by buffing the marble with a clean, dry cloth.
Deep scratches can be lifted out using an abrasive, but it is advised to use a professional to do this.
How to clean Slate Floors
Methods
When it comes to regular maintenance, cleaning slate floors is easy – just go over the surface with a normal mop to lift away dust and dirt. Then, when you need to give it a deep clean (which you’ll want to do every month or so), the best way to clean a slate floor is as follows:
Vacuum. This is the best way to ensure that any loose dust or dirt is removed from the floor before you start mopping
Make up a cleaning solution using a slate floor cleaner. These cleaners are designed to remove stains and dirt from slate floors without damaging them. Following the instructions on the packaging and wear safety clothing
Start mopping. Work in small sections so you don’t miss any spots and make sure the mop is rung out thoroughly to avoid making the floor too wet
Rinse with clean water. Again, making sure your mop is well rung out.
Leave it to dry. Make sure the room is well-ventilated so that the floor dries as quickly as possible. You can also use a sponge mop to soak up excess water
Use an old toothbrush to clean grout. You can use a specialized grout cleaner for this. In some cases, your slate floor cleaning solution can double as a grout cleaner – check the packaging to see if this is the case
How to remove stains
So far, so good – you know how to clean slate floors and how to keep them dust-free between deep cleanings. But what if you spill something on your slate floor? You don’t need to break out the mop immediately. Instead, follow these simple steps:
Act fast. Porous surface like slate absorb liquid and can be damaged by anything acidic, so use a soft cotton cloth to pick up as much of the stain as possible
Use a sponge to mop the area. There’s no need to attack the entire floor for a small spillage; just dampen a sponge with warm soapy water and wipe the stained area
Dry up. Use a clean, dry sponge or cloth to soak up any excess moisture and leave the floor to dry fully
And there you have it – how to clean slate floors and get rid of any stains without damaging the tiles.
BEFORE YOU START
Make sure your floor is properly sealed! Slate absorbs water, so make sure you don’t need to reapply any sealant before you begin washing the floor.
Make sure your slate floor is properly sealed before cleaning Remove any loose dirt with a soft brush or dry mop Use a specialized slate cleaner, diluted in water, to mop the floor Soak up any excess moisture once you’ve finished with a dry cloth or sponge mop Clean the grout between tiles with an old toothbrush.
How to Clean Granite
Methods
Dust them on a daily basis.
Use a small amount of water and a microfiber cloth to wipe them down after meal preparation.
Regularly apply a granite cleaner (bought at your local hardware store) or a homemade remedy – but beware of using vinegar, as its acidic properties can completely degrade the polished stone.
What Type of Granite Cleaner Should I Use?
Remember that abrasive and acidic chemicals will do more harm than good to your polished surfaces. Look for a specific granite cleaner, or a product designed for marble, which has a balanced pH level. Simply spray on and wipe off. Remember to test on a small area first to check there is no adverse reaction.
For additional protection and lasting shine, try using a granite sealer to provide resistance against stains from spills and leftover foodstuffs.
When using a sealer, it’s important to use water-based formulas as granite is susceptible to spot-etching and staining.
As a natural remedy, use plain warm water for cleaning granite. Rinse a damp cloth and gently buff the worktops clean.
Cleaning granite worktops regularly helps keep them looking their best. Aim to apply a granite cleaner at least twice a week and enjoy the granite in your home for years to come.
Simply use a small amount of water and a microfiber cloth to wipe granite worktops on a daily basis. For a deeper clean, use a specialized granite cleaner. Avoid using cleaning solutions with abrasive or acidic properties, such as vinegar. Granite sealers can help to protect your work surfaces.
How to clean Brick Walls
Key steps
Wear protective gear such as rubber gloves and goggles.
Cover plants, bushes and window and door frames before cleaning.
Use a pressure washer for removing salt residue from brick.
Use bleach and water to remove moss, mold and mildew.
Washing liquid and salt are great for cleaning exposed interior brick.
Brick walls in the garden as well as exposed in your home can look great, but left alone, they can also collect grime which seems hard to shift. Fortunately, cleaning brickwork is easier than it may seem! This article will advise you on the best tips and methods to get the job done quickly and effectively.
If you’re cleaning a brick wall, whether it’s indoors or on the exterior of your home, ensure you wear gloves to protect your hands from rough bricks and cleaning agents.
How to clean brickwork exposed indoors
If you want to ensure you have a clean brick wall because it’s exposed indoors, there are a few quick, easy steps to keep it looking its best:
- Use a dry dishcloth to gently wipe the brickwork surface to remove loose dirt and dust.
- Pour a little grease-cutting washing up liquid into a small bucket.
- Add a small amount of table salt to the liquid and mix well.
- Apply a thin layer of the soap-and-salt mix to bricks using a clean cloth.
- Leave the mixture to rest for 10-15 minutes.
- Use a hard-bristled scrubbing brush to remove any stubborn dirt.
- Fill a bucket with warm water.
- Using a clean cloth dipped in the warm water, remove the remaining detergent mix from the wall.
- Allow the wall to air dry.
How to clean exterior brick
Exterior walls can be affected by a number of different elements. You can keep them looking their best by cleaning them on a regular basis using our guide below:
Protect any surrounding surfaces from spraying debris. You could use a tarp to protect nearby bushes and flower gardens. Make sure to use painter’s tape to protect window frames and door trims.
Use a garden hose to loosen and remove dirt or grime. Always start at the top, move in a side-to-side direction making your way downwards. If an area is especially dirty, allow the water to stay in one spot for more thorough cleaning.
If the brickwork is particularly heavily soiled, use a pressure washer. This is a great choice if you prefer not to use chemicals. If you don’t own a pressure washer, you can rent one from a DIY retailer. This is particularly effective when removing efflorescence from brick.
Moss, mold and mildew can appear as black or green patches in areas that receive limited sunlight. Make a mix of one cup of chlorine bleach in one gallon of water. Apply this mixture to the bricks with a hard-bristled brush. Avoid using wire-bristled brushes as these can create rust stains. Rinse the wall with water before cleaning it with the bleach solution. Ensure you wear safety goggles and rubber gloves to protect your eyes and skin.
Ceramic and Porcelain
Ceramic tile care and maintenance, for the most part, requires minimal attention. Glazed and unglazed tile, under normal residential situations, can be cleaned using clean water and a tile cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. Always follow up with a rinse of clean water to completely remove all the cleaning solution. Regular maintenance is recommended to avoid build-up of dirt, residue, grease, soap, detergents, or other external contaminants.
Improper care of ceramic tile using maintenance and improper cleaning products can result in a build-up on the surface, causing the tile to be slippery. Wax cleaners and oil-based detergents may decrease the slip resistance and are not recommended for use on your ceramic tile.
CERAMIC & PORCELAIN TILE CARE
For basic cleaning, the following procedures are recommended in ceramic tile care:
- Sweep or vacuum surface
- Mix water with tile and grout cleaner per manufacturer’s instructions and apply to surface
- Allow solution to sit for three to five minutes
- Agitate with sponge or mop
- Mop up solution
- Rinse mop and change cleaning solution at least every 500 square feet
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water
- Dry mop floor to remove moisture or pick up residue with a wet-vac
- Wipe the floor dry
CERAMIC & PORCELAIN TILE MAINTENANCE
For tile with coarse or abrasive type surfaces, ceramic tile maintenance will need to be performed more frequently. Agitation will need to be more vigorous and water changes more frequent. Proper cleaning of these types of tile is necessary for the slip resistance value to be maintained. Grease or water accumulation may create slippery conditions. Be careful to avoid introduction of grease from dirty mops to your floor surface while cleaning.
Because the grout on your ceramic tile needs time to thoroughly dry after installation, we recommend you do not scrub or wash your ceramic tile for five days after installation. We also recommend protecting your floor against abrasive dirt at entrances to buildings with dirt catching floor mats.
Encaustic / Cement Tiles
HOW TO CLEAN ENCAUSTIC FLOOR TILES
The same techniques that can be used to clean tile floors can often be use for encaustic tiles.
‘Encaustic tiles that have become stained or dirty can generally be cleaned with fresh water, detergents or proprietary tile cleaners – but never soak them,’ says Hunt. ‘Where water is used to clean encaustic tiles, control its spread; a wet towel left on the floor overnight can be effective.’
Nylon scourers will help to remove stubborn marks, although wire brushes or other abrasives should be avoided.
One of the reasons encaustic tiles should not become too wet, is that they can develop efflorescence – a white, salty deposit. This can also be present when floors have been covered over with non-breathable coverings. You should never attempt to wash off efflorescence, as the salts will re-penetrate the tiles – always brush or vacuum it away. To keep your encaustic tiles in good condition, sweep or vacuum floor surfaces regularly, and repair or replace missing or damaged tiles.
DEEP-CLEANING ENCAUSTIC TILES
Where encaustic tiles have ingrained stains or hard-to-remove deposits, such as glue, cement or paint, they may require a more thorough deep-clean. ‘Use abrasive scouring pads, a sharp blade and suitable chemicals to loosen and remove unwanted contaminants,’ says Nigel Frost of The Floor Restoration Company(opens in new tab).
Independent restoration expert Helaine Clare uses a scraper to remove paint splashes from encaustic tiles. ‘Choose one that keeps the blade at an acute angle to the tile to avoid scratching or gouging it,’ she says.
For removing glue and adhesives, solvent-based paint and bitumen, Frost advises the use of paint stripper, cleaned off with white spirit.
To remove old polishes and wax, general grime, grease and oil, he suggests an alkaline stripper – such as Carefree Stripper.
Finally, to remove cement and residual floor screed, Frost advocates the use of brick acid (hydrochloric acid).
‘Carry out a small test patch to establish the best method and to make sure that there is no detrimental effect on the tile’s surface,’ adds Frost. ‘And always follow instructions and wear appropriate PPE.
‘Tackle a manageable area and don’t try to do it all at once but do treat the whole floor with each chemical or process – this will ensure an equal result across the floor.’
FINISHING ENCAUSTIC TILES
Traditionally, unglazed tiles were left unfinished. ‘Don’t apply a sealant or impregnator, particularly on a ground floor with no damp-proof membrane, or you will trap moisture,’ warns Clare.
‘If you’d like a slight sheen, apply liquid beeswax sparingly to the tiles, using a soft cotton cloth.’
In general, encaustic tiles stand the test of time and, after a tiled floor has been finished, it will be easy to maintain, needing just a vacuuming and damp mopping with a household washing up liquid and warm water.
‘Install good doormats to catch the grit and debris before it gets a chance to reach the floor,’ says Frost. ‘Try to use mats that offer some breathability and avoid rubber-backed coverings.’